Saturday, February 18, 2023

A STEM Project: Making a ShuffleBoard Game Using a TurtleStitch Created Board Frame

Making a ShuffleBoard Game Using a TurtleStitch Created Board Frame 


Here is a video of the shuffleboard weights in action.

Coding a design in TurtleStitch allows for a dynamic method of creating board games.  https://www.turtlestitch.org/run#cloud:Username=Elaine&ProjectName=Shuffleboard   In this blog posting, I created a shuffleboard game which allows for a collared ball bearing also known as a shuffleboard weight, to glide across the surface of the board when pushed.   Play alternates between two players pushing their shuffleboard weights across the board to the numbered sections.  The numbered sections represent the value which is tallied when all of their shuffleboard weights are played. The winner is the player with the most tallied points.

I believe coding a variable size board frame in TurtleStitch is a valuable tool for creating other board games.  The playing field can be modified for other types of imagined games which require a ball rolling over a playing field. The possibilities of creating a board game are limitless and are only bounded by your imagination.

Cut the Shuffleboard Model Pieces

Here is the PDF.  I used 65 lb. cardstock from Michaels. Six 9mm ball bearings for the shuffleboard weights.

Here is the .Studio file.

Here is the SVG. The entire design is present.  Zoom out to see the entire file.

Make the Shuffleboard Frame

Apply glue to the tab on the frame and adhere to make the piece flat.  Once the glue has dried, make the frame piece into a block.

Glue the sides together at their corners.

I glued the outmost tab first and then applied glue to the three other sides.

Inserting the sides together results in a frame with mitered corners

Glue the orange frame to the playing board.  My printer did not print the playing board correctly so I had to cut the playing board to the correct size. Glue the playing field to the center of the backing.

Apply glue to the frame and adhere to the backing.

Completed playing field.

Make the Shuffleboard Weights

Glue the collars together at their seams.

Apply glue to the washer as shown above.  Place the collar in the center of the washer.  Repeat for all of the game pieces. Please note, there are two sizes of collars.  The collars look like hats once they are glued. The hats are placed into one another to encase a ball bearing.

Allow the glue to dry to a point that the surface of the glue is dry but the inside of the glue is not thoroughly dry.  Place a 9 mm ball bearing into the center of one of the collars and slide the other size collar onto the top of the ball bearing.

The ball bearing is now encased in the collar and can roll freely.  Make sure that any glue that might be present is removed from the ball bearing so that it can roll freely.

The game is now ready to be played. Make your own game rules to further enhance play.

Imagine A New Type of Game

Try to make a new type of game using my TurtleStitch program and the shuffleboard weights as game pieces.  

I can think of a bullseye type of game with a square frame and a circular playing field.  The players try to knock each others pieces out of the  bullseye.

Here is the .Studio file for the bullseye game.

Here is my version of a bullseye game. 

Can you think of more types of games?

Tuesday, February 14, 2023

A STEM Project: Making a Variable Sized Heart Box Using TurtleStitch

Variable Sized Heart Box 

In this blog posting, I will explain how to make a variable size heart box using TurtleStitch to generate the components of a heart box and to cut them out with the Silhouette or another electronic cutting machine. 

NOTE: For my Silhouette friends, I have included a file for the regular size heart box, with a scale of 1, at the end of this posting.

How to Make a Heart Box in TurtleStitch

The first thing that you need to understand is how a heart shape is created.

Since the heart shape is made up of a square whose side is the same size as the circle's diameter.  It is easy to navigate the turtle around the perimeter of the heart. 



I started at the  bottom point of the heart and 'Turn'ed the turtle 45 degrees to 'Move' the side length of the square. An 'Arcleft' block was used to create the semicircle. (The value of the radius is half the length of the side of the square).  Next, the turtle was pointed in the -45 degree direction.   'Arcleft' and 'Move' blocks are used to complete the simple heart. 



The next thing that I needed to do was to make the sides of the heart box.  That is simple because I know the length of the side of the box and the circumference of the semicircle. Using these calculations, I can make a strip for the side of the box. 

To make the tabs necessary for the strip, I modified an Edgefold block and made them with variable size teeth.  Here is the program that I made to perform this task. https://www.turtlestitch.org/run#cloud:Username=Elaine&ProjectName=Edgefold%20Width%20With%20Multiple%20Teeth

I incorporated this program into the simple heart program to produce the heart box sides.

Here is my Simple Heart Box program with two hearts and sides for the top and bottom to make the top and bottom of the box.

I should note that I have also included a scalloped heart in my design.  The reason for this scalloped heart is, there is a gap at the point where the heart meets at the top when it is glued.  It doesn't happen all of the time, but most of the time and it is frustrating to see the pinhole gap. To remediate this problem, I use the scalloped heart to hide the gap. 

Run the Heart Box Program in TurtleStitch

In my TurtleStitch program, update the 'Set Scaling Factor' to your desired scaling parameter, run the program and export as a DXF file.

Directions to Cut the Heart Box in Silhouette Using the TurtleStich DXF file

The DXF file that was created in TurtleStitch is opened in the Silhouette software. The size of the one inch cube is observed. The size of the entire file needs to be resized as the size is not preserved from one application to the other.  Divide 1 by the size of the observed one inch square and then multiply by 100. Transform the entire file with the calculated percentage amount.  Check the one inch square to see if it is now one inch.  (The one inch square is no longer needed, and can be deleted.)

Cut two of each heart and side pieces. Cut two of each scalloped heart. 

Please note: The larger heart and the shorter side strip is used to make the top of the box.  The smaller heart and taller side strip is used to make the bottom of the box.

Directions to Assemble the Heart Box 

Bend and apply glue to the tabs

Glue the opposite side together to form a loop. The tab is glued inward.

Bend the tabs and apply glue to each of the tabs.

Insert the bottom point of the appropriate heart first (see note above for correct heart/side strip placements) and then adhere the sides the heart.

Align the side seam to the point in the top of the heart.
Turn the piece over and make sure all of the tabs are adhered correctly. 
Repeat the above instructions for the other side of the box. 

Glue and adhere all of the remaining parts together.  I decided to use the bottom heart for the scallop that is placed on the top of the box because the scallops will show a little more.  It is a matter of preference but I thought I should mention what I did.

I made three boxes in different sizes by scaling.   In the photo, the largest box's scaling factor is 1.25, the medium box is 1 and the smallest box is .75.   (I ran the TurtleStitch program for each of the different size boxes and exported them to be cut with the Silhouette program.)

Embellish the box as desired. I added the word 'Love' to my box. 


Here is the PDF of the regular size box with a scaling factor of 1. I used 65 lb cardstock from Michaels.

Here is the .Studio file of the regular size box.

Here is the SVG of the regular size box.

I have included the word 'Love' and a rose in my files as optional embellishments.



Monday, February 6, 2023

A STEM Project:Creating an Embroidered Design on Cardstock and Making a Paper Picture Frame in TurtleStitch

Creating an Embroidered Design on Cardstock and Making a Paper Picture Frame in TurtleStitch

This is a multistep project which uses a lot of technology - a computer to run the TurtleStitch program http://turtlestitch.org, an embroidery machine to stitch the design and an electronic cutting machine, like the Silhouette or Cricut to cut the pieces necessary to make the paper picture frame.

Tracing An Image

Tracing an image in TurtleStitch is a simple operation.  An image is added to the stage area by the Import command as a background and then traced point by point along the edge of the image. The image can be created using the Silhouette software and saved as a PNG or SVG file. 

The imported image is added to the stage area. I recommend enlarging the stage area for easier tracing.

then import the file be traced with the Import command. Before importing your design, you can retrieve my design (or your design later) by scrolling down the program and finding the hat block...'when S key is pressed'. Click on that hat block and my design is retrieved. (pressing the "0" key will clear the design from memory so that you can start creating your own design).

Press the "0" (zero) key to clear the "graphic" table. Move the cursor to where you want to start. Press the "u" key to make a jump stitch to this location (I say the word "up" in my head as I do this to remember that the turtle(pen) should be in the "up" position as to not record the movement).  Press the space bar.  Make sure that there is a red line from the center of the design to where you are starting. The red line is a jump stitch. 

Press the letter "u" to move the mouse without drawing. To move multiple times without drawing. Press the letter "u" multiple times. The letter "u" must be pressed twice for a jump stitch to be created. Once at the place where the stitch ends and the next "u" at the place where the next stitch begins. Press the space bar to continue creating stitches.  I placed the stitch points about an 1/8 inch apart. Continue pressing the space bar to trace the design.  If you do not like the last point that was traced, it can be removed with the "r" key. 

The "e" key MUST be pressed when the design is completed. Make sure you do this before exporting the design to be embroidered for your machine.  I did not do this and my Brother PE 800 machine would not load the exported design.

Export your design for the file type that is needed for your embroidery machine.

Embroider Your Design

My design was stitched on cardstock backed with Pellon fusible interfacing.

In my example, I used 65 lb. white Astrobright cardstock for my embroidered design. I ironed the 8 1/2 in. square piece of cardstock onto Pellon TP971F fusible interfacing as a backing to the cardstock.   I used a 5 x 7 magnetic hoop and a regular needle to embroider it on my Brother PE800 machine.  I also modified the speed of the machine to it slowest speed.

Colorize Your Design

I colorized my design to add interest with Copic Markers. 

Cut the embroidered cardstock to fit your frame size. 


Make the Picture Frame In TurtleStitch and cut it out using an electronic cutting machine

In this example, I use the Silhouette machine to cut my picture frame.


There are four pieces to make a frame for an embroidered piece. The frame pieces are two sides (length and width of the frame), a backing piece and an optional, mat.

Set the length of 'side #1 and side #2' to the frame size in inches. Run the program. 

Export as a DXF file.

Open the file in Silhouette.  Resize the entire file using the one inch square as reference. The size of the entire file needs to be resized as the size is not preserved from one application to the other.  Divide 1 by the size of the observed one inch square and then multiply by 100. Transform the entire file with the calculated percentage amount.  Check the one inch square to see if it is now one inch.  Cut two of each frame piece, the backing piece and the optional mat.

Crease the side piece without the wing tabs as shown above and apply glue to the tab.

Adhere the glue by pressing down on the side piece to flatten it.  Once the glue is adhered, form the piece into a block. Repeat for the other side piece without the wing tabs.

Crease and apply glue to the tab as shown above for the side piece with the wing tabs. Flatten the piece as before to adhere the glue. Form the piece into a block.  Repeat for the remaining piece.

Apply glue to the wing tabs.  There are four of them, one on each side of the winged piece.  Insert the tabs into the side without the winged tabs.

A mitered corner is then created.  Make sure that each corner is at a 90 degree angle to one another.  I used a book to make sure that I made a right angle. 

Repeat gluing and inserting the winged tabs for the other sides.  Above is the last side which is inserted.  I applied glue on three sides of the winged tabs and then inserted both sides together.

I turned over the frame and glued the last two winged tabs of the mitered corner.

I centered the design by using my frame as reference on the backing.

I made pencil marks on the backing to indicate where the embroidered design will be placed.

I applied permanent tape runner glue to the inside of the penciled four corner area.

Adhere the design to the center of the backing. 

Apply permanent tape runner glue to the outer area of the backing.


Adhere the picture frame. Optional, cut and glue the mat to the embroidered piece.

The masterpiece is now ready to be hung up and displayed.
 I used a couple of Glue Dots to hang up my picture frame.