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This poodle embroidery was designed using the Silhouette software and converted to a PNG file.
I just purchased a Brother PE800 embroidery machine and I found a way to convert any image from a PNG or JPEG file to an embroidery file which my embroidery machine will recognize. It is a fairly easy process to convert the file.
Embroidery is produced by layering different color threads on a garment or textile. In this blog entry, I will explain the process of producing the embroidery file using open source and free software called Inkscape and Inkstitch.
For Silhouette users
I created my PNG file from a Silhouette Cameo image that I designed. A simple Silhouette design needs to be saved as a PNG or a JPEG file. Here is a PDF explaining how to adjust and save the Silhouette design for an embroidery machine in a PNG or JPEG file. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1emG5BSLSK-Oc9AlYBGUghRbdly57YCWT/view?usp=sharing
Once the PNG or JPEG file is created, it needs to be imported and converted into a bitmap using the Inkscape software. A bitmap shows where each of the colors in the design are located. Multiple bitmaps are created in the Inkscape software for each layer of the design.
The Inkstitch software assembles these bitmaps and digitizes it for the embroidery machine. This digitized software will be saved as a PES file (or any other file that your embroidery machine requires) and copied from your computer to the embroidery machine via a USB stick.
Both of the software programs, Inkscape and Inkstitch software need to be installed on your computer. The Inkscape install can be found at https://inkscape.org and the Inkstitch install at https://inkstitch.org
Creating an Embroidery file using Inkscape and Inkstitch
Open the Inkscape software. Import the PNG or JPEG file. Move the imported image to the workspace if it is off the screen.
Under the Path tab, Trace Bit Map will show the above screen when selected on the right. Note the things that are selected. Multiple scans, colors, smooth, stack and remove background. Select Update to update the selections and then Apply the selections.
A bounding box will be shown around the image. (see above) The Trace Bit Map command created multiple bit maps of your image. The original image plus all the created bitmaps are present and stacked on top of one another. You can tell the difference between the original image and the created bitmaps by the bounding box size. The original image is no longer needed so it can be deleted.
Ungroup the bit maps (in the Object menu) and pull them away from each other to examine them. (The zoom in and out is in the bottom right corner of the screen.) Only two bitmaps are needed. The background layer which is pink and the foreground layer which is black and white. Look for the foreground layer which has the most detail that you like. Delete the bitmaps that you do not want. The result is just two bitmaps. Please note, you can use more bitmaps/layers but for simplicity sake, I am just using two layers for this design. (I made a third layer for a different colored nose but decided to make this tutorial simpler.)
Both of the bitmaps are on the same layer and one of them needs to be moved to a different layer because each layer will have a different color to embroider. The embroidery machine needs to know when to change the color. Copy the Foreground layer to your clipboard(Command C). Once copied, delete this foreground image. Go to Layer and Add a second layer. I called mine "Layer 2".
Paste the Foreground to Layer 2. You can tell that it is on Layer 2 by looking at the highlighted area on the right in the screen above.
Select both of the layers by going to the Edit command. Select All in All Layers. The bounding box will be highlighted around each image. Go to Object, and then the Align and Distribute panel.
Center both of the images, first on vertical axis and then on the horizontal axis which is directly below that command on the screen. The two bitmaps are now stacked on top of one another.
I moved the image to the workspace because it had moved off the workspace when it was aligned. In the Object menu, Group the images together. The size of the design was in millimeters. I changed it to inches.
I decided that the design was too big and I wanted the height of the design to be 2.5 inches. I locked the lock so that the image would be resized proportionally.
Go to Extensions, Ink/Stitch, Fill Tools and then Break Apart Fill Objects to enable the Inkstitch software.
Select the image. Make sure there is a bounding box around it. I selected complex and then apply. The system will appear to be working and then the same message comes up when completed. This is normal. Close this window.
Go to Extensions, Ink/Stitch, Params to simulate the embroidery design.
The embroidery design will be generated by the apply and quit command. This command might take a couple of minutes to produce the digitized embroidery design. Notice at the bottom of the screen in the ribbon area, there is a disk design with a yellow bird, this is the Inkstitch software.
Once you are happy with the design, go to Extensions, Ink/Stitch, Visualize and Export and then Simulate and Realistic Preview.
This GUI or graphical user interface simulates the embroidery machine and how the design will be sewn.
Note how the two colors will be sewn. This is important as you want the pink color as the background.
Here is my completed embroidery simulation.
To Export your file to your computer. Go to Extensions, Ink/Stitch, Visualize and Export and Embroider.
Create an exported copy of your file.
I saved the file as a PES file for my Brother machine. You can select a different file type for your machine.
Here is a copy of my poodle PES file if you are interested.
F14 Tomcat with retractable wings as there is a gear mechanism built into the plane.
Rear view with wings retracted
Video of F14 - Tomcat with retractable wings
I used 65 lb cardstock to make this card. The silver metallic paper is Neenah brand Chalice Silver 65 lb. card stock from Office Depot. I used transparency film for the acetate canopy cover. The star mini brads are from Michaels.
Glue the left and right wings together to create a three ply wing. Make sure that the hole and gears are aligned correctly. Set the wings aside.
Bend the stablizer tabs at a right angle. Glue the stabilizers together.
Completed stabilizers. Set them aside.
Curve the rear cockpit over a round object. I used a paint brush in this photo. Bend the outer tabs upward.
Fuselage #1 and the curved rear cockpit. Apply glue to the top edge of the curved rear cockpit.
Insert this tab into Fuselage #1.
Make sure that the rear cockpit is centered to Fuselage #1.
Apply glue to the tab on one side of the rear cockpit. Attach it to the inner edge of Fuselage #1.
Apply glue to the tab on the other side of the rear cockpit. Attach it to the inner edge of Fuselage #1.
Underside view of Fuselage #1.
Apply glue to Fuselage #2 as shown above. Adhere the two pieces together with Fuselage #1 being on top of Fuselage #2. The rear cockpit of Fuselage #1 needs to be squeezed together to fit onto Fuselage #2.
Apply glue to the top of Fuselage #1. Adhere Fuselage #3 on top.
Completed three ply fuselage. Make sure that the holes are all aligned correctly.
Turn the fuselage over and insert the mini brads into the hole of the fuselage and then the right wing hole. Do the same for the left wing.
This is what it should look like with the gears aligned. Don't worry if the gears get misaligned. It can be adjusted later.
Apply glue only in the three locations shown above.
Attach Fuselage #4. Slide the mini brads through the hole of Fuselage #4 and splay the prongs. The completed piece is shown above. At this point, play with the wings to align the gears if needed. Extend the wings to the furthest position and slowly move both wings inward. This should align the wings. Set this main body assembly aside.
Roll the two sides of the exhaust unit into two tubes. I used a paintbrush to make the round shape.
Bend the tab inward and apply glue to one side of the exhaust unit as shown above.
Adhere to the dotted line on the fuselage. I used wooden dowel to press down the tab inside the exhaust unit.
Repeat for the other exhaust unit.
Bend the air intake piece (on the right) into the shape shown in the middle and apply glue to the two tabs.
Insert the forward tab into the exhaust unit and adhere the two side tabs to the fuselage body as shown.
Repeat for the other air intake unit.
Roll the exhaust pipe into a tube using the paintbrush handle as a form. Apply glue to the tab and adhere.
Insert the exhaust pipe into the fuselage by aligning the seams and inserting the seam last. Align the seams. Repeat for the other exhaust pipe.
Apply glue to the edge of the seam so that the exhaust pipe does not move.
Attach the main body assembly and the undercarriage together. Undo the mini brad on one side of the plane. Insert the mini brad prongs through the undercarriage assembly holes.
Undo the brad on one side of the plane. Insert the brad prongs through the undercarriage assembly holes. Repeat for the other mini brad.
Apply glue in the area shown above.
Apply glue in the area shown above.
Apply glue in the area shown above.
Apply glue on the tabs and adhere to the undercarriage. Set the fuselage aside.
Make the front cockpit and nose cone.
Crease all of the tabs and bend the cockpit body into a U-shape. Apply glue to the tab as shown above.
Adhere the tab to make the U-shape. Apply glue to the two parallel tabs. Bend this piece upward and adhere to the sides of the cockpit.
Bend the top tab inward as shown. Notice the longer tab is standing up. Apply glue to the bottom of this right angle and adhere the longer tab. The longer tab will be at a right angle. This create a shelf where the back of the canopy can rest.
Roll the nose cone into a cone shape by using the paintbrush handle as a form.
Bend the tip of the nose cone inward so that the point is not that prominent.
Apply glue to the tab (not the straight edge) and adhere into a cone.
Notice that there are two sets of dotted lines. Make this area between the two dotted lines flat. This will be the bottom of the nose cone.
Insert the nose cone, with the bottom down, into the front cockpit and push it forward until it fits snugly.
Apply glue to the edge of the nose cone so that it will not move.
Make the canopy with the acetate canopy cover and canopy cross pieces.
Bend the acetate and insert into the cockpit so that it looks like the above photo.
Apply glue as shown to onside of the cockpit.
Adhere the canopy.
Apply glue on the other side of the cockpit as shown above.
Adhere the other side of the canopy.
Bend down the windshield and glue to the cockpit.
Apply glue to the tab as shown.
Fold the the tabs of the undercarriage downward. Apply glue to the two side of the tab on the fuselage body. Slide the front cockpit into the fuselage body.
Make sure the undercarriage of the fuselage is even with the front cockpit. The photo above shows how it looks underneath.
